Wanderlust Home and Pet Care
June 4 It was a quick drive to Saint Emilion from the Dordogne area except for the roundabouts. Must have been 8 roundabouts in a row! I chose Saint Emilion as a place to have lunch and do a little touring before reaching Bordeaux. The town was crowded with visitors. Eight tour buses of tourist from a cruise ship were in town. We found the tourism office and discovered there was much to see in the city. We decided it would be best to come back during the week when it was less crowded. Saint Emilion must wait for another day. On to Bordeaux and our AirBnB apartment.
The apartment is a college pad very close to the center of the city. Once we settled in, I realized that the apartment wasn’t as clean as I would have liked it, not a single matching dish and a dish towel that was so holey it should have died and gone to heaven. Only time will tell if we get some satisfaction.
Wonderful view of Beynac as we drive to Saint Emilion.
June 6 The apartment is located close to the tram however we chose to walk across the bridge and into town to find the tourism office. We bought a 7 day tram ticket and then headed out to see the UNESCO monuments. It reminds me a lot of Paris with the beautiful buildings built in the 1700’s. The owner of the apartment came to clean the areas I listed. I also received two new dish towels and a clothes drying rack. All is Good.
June 9 We took the tram to La Cite du Vin - a wine museum which just opened a couple of weeks ago. I would recommend this museum to wine lovers. The best part was the smelling apparatus. The exhibits were all high tech except for the shadow boxes which explained wine over the ages - kind of dumb. We actually spent two hours or more in the museum - lots to see. The charge of the ticket included a glass of wine of your choosing from the varieties being poured.
June 11 A trip to Auchan Hypermarket for groceries and a picnic cooler. I needed something to keep things cool when traveling from one destination to another. After some pate, cheese and wine the GPS took us to Eglise Sainte Marie for a geocache. The church tower was added to the medieval church in 1887.
June 12 Saint Michel Catherdral and square. What a slice of life!! Flea market and people sat at the cafes with their espresso soaking in the ambience. We continued walking to the Marches du Capucins where there were cheese vendors, fish vendors, any kind of food vendor and finally people sharing big platters of seafood or tapas at many small restaurants. The locals were out enjoying life. We then stumbled on a beautiful church built in the 11th century. It was a great day of surprises.
June 7 We continued traversing the city. We had to be very careful where we stepped - dog doo doo everywhere!! We had lunch at a restaurant situated in the Place Camille Jullian. It was nice enough to sit outside and people watch while we ate. We tried a white wine which was delicious. At 3pm the waiters brought out the ash tray to put on every table - amazing.
June 13 Saint Emilion - We walked the town in the rain - I finally was able to use the rain poncho -yeah. I hate to carry items and then never use them. Lunch was lovely with a yummy bottle of local wine.
I purchased tickets for the Underground Saint-Emilion tour. Saint, Emilion, lived in a cave and performed miracles some time in the 8th century. About 400 yrs after Emilion’s death, the monks built Trinity church above his cave. After the French revolution, churches were sold to the people to raise money for the government. This church was sold to a cooper who used fire to bend the oak staves. 14th century old paintings in Trinity were discovered when soot was cleaned from the ceiling. The soot actually preserved the paint. The picture is pulled from the internet as pictures were not allowed.
A huge underground monolithic church was carved out of a sandstone cliff in the 11th century. It was cheaper to quarry the stone for the church than to build it above ground with blocks. (They even sold the quarried stones). They think the architect got the idea from the carved out rock buildings in Cappadocia in Turkey. The underground church was along the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. This is a must see when visiting the town.
June 15 The weather was on our side. What a lovely view from the tallest dune in Europe, the Dune du Pilat. The traffic was terrible as we drove back to Bordeaux. I was amazed to see so many truck from all around Europe. The first letter of the country is on the license plate. Lunch was at a restaurant close to the apartment. Gary had oysters. My veal was just so so. Dessert was a peach soup with basil ice cream - delicious. The wine, Chateau Grand Masion from Medoc was wonderful.
June 17 We took the tram all the way to Palais des Congres to figure out how long it would take us to get to this stop for a meeting. Tomorrow, we have dinner with an old french friend from a Princess Cruise back in 2001. It was 1:30 pm when we sat down for lunch not far from rue Sainte Catherines. I know Gary & I disrupt the normal lunch operation when we come in for a later lunch. We, however, are trying to keep to 2 meals a day and having lunch later in the day helps to keep the hunger away. We were going to visit the Musee d’Aquitaine but it was raining so decided to head home.
June 18 I spent the day packing and cleaning as we start our drive North to Quimper. Our dinner with Dominique and her friend Jeanine was delightful. Dom drove out to a favorite traditional restaurant, Au petit Nice, in the Medoc region at the Blaye-Lamarque ferry. We ate the local river eel - boney but very tasty with plenty of garlic, foie gras made with Armagnac and fruit du mer. We hope to get together in Paris in November to celebrate Dominique son’s birthday.